How To Clip A Curve
Concave Curve is shown on the left of the drawing and Convex Curves is shown on the right of the drawing.
Clipping and notching a curves seam allows the seam to lie flat.
Concave Curves
Clips or slits are cut into the seam allowance.
Convex Curves
Wedges are cut out of the seam allowance.
How-To Grade A Seam
Eliminating the bulk from seams is one way to avoid a “home made” looking garment. Grade any seams that will not be pressed open.
Grading a seam means to trim away half the seam allowance, after sewing, producing a “stepped” or “graded” appearance.
To Grade A Seam:
1. Join the two pieces together using the normal seam allowance.
2. Press the seam allowance flat to set the stitches.
3. Trim off half the seam allowance. If this is a facing seam, trim away half the facing allowance. If this is a construction seam, trim away half the seam allowance that will lie next to the outside of the garment.
4. Under-stitch any facings to avoid rolling. To under-stitch, press the facing seam allowance against the facing piece. Top stitch through the facing and seam allowances. Press.
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