Interfacing Guide

Care Code Key For All Charts:
1 = machine wash warm or dry clean
3 = machine wash warm, tumble dry, remove promptly
4 = machine wash warm, delicate cycle, tumble dry, cool iron
7 = dry clean only
Stretch Key For All Charts:
stable (woven or knit) = no stretch in lengthwise or crosswise direction, does stretch on bias
stable (nonwoven) = no stretch in any direction
crosswise = stable in lengthwise direction, stretch in crosswise direction
all-bias = stretch in lengthwise, crosswise and bias directions

Blue type on the chart below indicates an interfacing or similar interfacing available for purchase,

Interfacing Hits and Tips:
If cutting out fabric on the straight of grain (i.e..: jacket front), cut woven interfacing on the straight of grain also. This provides firm shaping.
Cut interfacing on the bias for a softer, drapier effect.
Fusible interfacing may be attached to the garment fabric before cutting out pattern pieces. Be careful to match the grain lines.
Stable non-woven interfacings have little or no stretch so it is important to match the grain lines.
Stretchable non-woven interfacings usually are stronger along the lengthwise grain and stretchier across the cross-grain.
Washable woven interfacings may be preshrunk by placing the interfacing in a bowl of hot water and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Remove and roll in a towel to remove the water. Allow to air dry.
Make sure the fashion fabric and the interfacing have the same care instructions.
Common sense tells you that a fusible interfacing should into be used on any fabric that cannot be ironed.
If in doubt about what type of fusible interfacing to use, make a test swatch by cutting a 3-4" square of the fashion fabric and apply the interfacing, testing the iron temperature to make sure there is a bond between the two fabrics.