home page
How-To Clip a Curve and Grade a Seam

How To Clip A Curve

Concave Curve is shown on the left of the drawing and Convex Curves is shown on the right of the drawing.

Placeholder image

Clipping and notching a curves seam allows the seam to lie flat.

Concave Curves
Clips or slits are cut into the seam allowance.

Convex Curves
Wedges are cut out of the seam allowance.

How-To Grade A Seam

Eliminating the bulk from seams is one way to avoid a “home made” looking garment. Grade any seams that will not be pressed open.

Grading a seam means to trim away half the seam allowance, after sewing, producing a “stepped” or “graded” appearance.

To Grade A Seam:

1. Join the two pieces together using the normal seam allowance.

2. Press the seam allowance flat to set the stitches.

3. Trim off half the seam allowance. If this is a facing seam, trim away half the facing allowance. If this is a construction seam, trim away half the seam allowance that will lie next to the outside of the garment.

4. Under-stitch any facings to avoid rolling. To under-stitch, press the facing seam allowance against the facing piece. Top stitch through the facing and seam allowances. Press.

copyright © MM, Fiber Images™. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. This material may not be sold, copied, or reproduced in any form without the written consent of the author. Do not copy or post to another web site.